Short reviews of wines by Paul Kiernan.

Viña Chocalán Gran Reserva Blend  €19.99 €15.99 from O’Briens. I got this in the Naas store yesterday. Full marks for interested staff, great selection of well-priced wines, and accessible, clean tasting area. But I was surprised that mid-month there was no window display along one whole side of the shop (the window seemed to be used as a storage area). I don’t care about this at all, really, but I know O’Briens used to place great importance on this when I worked there before. Anyway, the Chocalan is gorgeous - recommended ****
Here’s another excellent Chilean red blend for around the same price from Curious Wines. This helped me get through last Christmas eve when the heating oil had run out.  http://bit.ly/g2MAbV

Viña Chocalán Gran Reserva Blend  €19.99 €15.99 from O’Briens. I got this in the Naas store yesterday. Full marks for interested staff, great selection of well-priced wines, and accessible, clean tasting area. But I was surprised that mid-month there was no window display along one whole side of the shop (the window seemed to be used as a storage area). I don’t care about this at all, really, but I know O’Briens used to place great importance on this when I worked there before. Anyway, the Chocalan is gorgeous - recommended ****

Here’s another excellent Chilean red blend for around the same price from Curious Wines. This helped me get through last Christmas eve when the heating oil had run out.  http://bit.ly/g2MAbV

Olssens Summer Dreaming Pinot Noir Rosé -> €14.95  €11.95 -> The Corkscrew, Dublin -> http://bit.ly/fQXvxp 

Olssens Summer Dreaming Pinot Noir Rosé -> €14.95  €11.95 -> The Corkscrew, Dublin -> http://bit.ly/fQXvxp 

Two Wrongs Make A Right In Supervalue.
This shelf price for this in Supervalue is €13.19 (another odd price - when are people going to see sense?), but gremlins meant it scanned €8.22 at the cash register (maybe it’s being delisted and the reduced price is the automatic “bin end” price, but I doubt it). I deliberated over educating the till technician with respect to the wrong price, before deciding against. As Ron Burgundy might say - “When in Rome!”
But apparently the shop Gods were watching, as later that night the first bottle (I bought two) turned out to be corked. It wasn’t unpleasant or undrinkable but the fruit definitely had a touch of the dodo about it. Ultimately, the wine received an honourable discharge and ended up in a fine Ox-Tail Stew ( http://smorgasblog.ie/2010/11/30/oxtailStew ) that didn’t even mention wine in its list of ingredients.

Mont Gras ‘Quatro’, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2007 -> Imported by Barry Fitz (what’s the correct name these days?) -> Extract and sediment-heavy, 14.5%, blend of cab-syrah-carmenere-malbec. Lovely velvety tannins with sweet berry and vanilla. Similar to many other Chilean blended reds I’ve had in the €12-€16 bracket; that is to say, pretty good. ***

Two Wrongs Make A Right In Supervalue.

This shelf price for this in Supervalue is €13.19 (another odd price - when are people going to see sense?), but gremlins meant it scanned €8.22 at the cash register (maybe it’s being delisted and the reduced price is the automatic “bin end” price, but I doubt it). I deliberated over educating the till technician with respect to the wrong price, before deciding against. As Ron Burgundy might say - “When in Rome!”

But apparently the shop Gods were watching, as later that night the first bottle (I bought two) turned out to be corked. It wasn’t unpleasant or undrinkable but the fruit definitely had a touch of the dodo about it. Ultimately, the wine received an honourable discharge and ended up in a fine Ox-Tail Stew ( http://smorgasblog.ie/2010/11/30/oxtailStew ) that didn’t even mention wine in its list of ingredients.

Mont Gras ‘Quatro’, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2007 -> Imported by Barry Fitz (what’s the correct name these days?) -> Extract and sediment-heavy, 14.5%, blend of cab-syrah-carmenere-malbec. Lovely velvety tannins with sweet berry and vanilla. Similar to many other Chilean blended reds I’ve had in the €12-€16 bracket; that is to say, pretty good. ***

Much like Ireland, the Kiernan household finds itself in a very challenging financial position at the start of 2011.
In this case “very challenging” is a euphemism. 
The government is lucky in that it can raise taxes to bring in more money; I can only slash spending in order to fix the yawning deficit in my current account.
A beermat calculation just now shows that I can save €2,000 a year by culling coffees and newspapers.
After that I’m sad to say that wine is in the line of fire.
So last night I bought my cheapest wine ever - €7 Vina Albali, Valdepenas Gran Reserva, Spain, 2001 (Supervalue). Well, it was reduced from €14, apparently. If I had to judge here, I would guess the “real price” to be maybe a tenner - I probably wouldn’t have paid €14 for it but, having said that, €7 is a very good price for so mature an appellation-level wine - assuming it is still drinkable.
Valdepenas isn’t an especially prestigious DO. It’s basically an enclave of La Mancha, high up in the meseta. You are talking about a stupendously-large area of vineyards here - the DO classified vineyards alone in La Mancha cover more land than all of Australia’s vineyards combined.
The soil and climate are similar in La Mancha and Valdepenas but wines from the latter are more highly regarded and so has its own separate DO.
Was Vina Albali drinkable? Yes! Aromatic with a lovely minty lift and classic Spanish red fruits and vanilla, with a touch of dried fruit and tobacco from a decade’s bottle ageing. Lightish in body and colour (Valdepenas, which is usually based on tempranillo, called cencibel here, often has white wine in it too) but still with some tannic grip. Impressive. ***
Maybe being poor won’t be so bad after all.

Much like Ireland, the Kiernan household finds itself in a very challenging financial position at the start of 2011.

In this case “very challenging” is a euphemism. 

The government is lucky in that it can raise taxes to bring in more money; I can only slash spending in order to fix the yawning deficit in my current account.

A beermat calculation just now shows that I can save €2,000 a year by culling coffees and newspapers.

After that I’m sad to say that wine is in the line of fire.

So last night I bought my cheapest wine ever - €7 Vina Albali, Valdepenas Gran Reserva, Spain, 2001 (Supervalue). Well, it was reduced from €14, apparently. If I had to judge here, I would guess the “real price” to be maybe a tenner - I probably wouldn’t have paid €14 for it but, having said that, €7 is a very good price for so mature an appellation-level wine - assuming it is still drinkable.

Valdepenas isn’t an especially prestigious DO. It’s basically an enclave of La Mancha, high up in the meseta. You are talking about a stupendously-large area of vineyards here - the DO classified vineyards alone in La Mancha cover more land than all of Australia’s vineyards combined.

The soil and climate are similar in La Mancha and Valdepenas but wines from the latter are more highly regarded and so has its own separate DO.

Was Vina Albali drinkable? Yes! Aromatic with a lovely minty lift and classic Spanish red fruits and vanilla, with a touch of dried fruit and tobacco from a decade’s bottle ageing. Lightish in body and colour (Valdepenas, which is usually based on tempranillo, called cencibel here, often has white wine in it too) but still with some tannic grip. Impressive. ***

Maybe being poor won’t be so bad after all.

Here’s the science - concentrate!
‘Trebbiano di Lugana’ is the grape used in Lugana, a wine from SSW of Lake Garda in Italy’s Brescia.
BUT (and this is new to me) it is the SAME grape as central Italy’s Verdicchio!
The insanity continues then as it transpires that this grape (whether you want to call it Verdicchio di San Gimignano or Trebbiano di Lugana) is the very same grape as Trebbiano di Soave, which is used to add aroma and body to steely garganega in Soave wines!
Confused? You shouldn’t be - I just explained it.
I have the pictured wine, Zenato Lugana 2009, here and it has caused some division here in the Kiernan household. 
Catherine opened it up when I was pumping the guns at the gym and when I came home I asked her how it was:
“Ummmm - I’m not loving it”.
Damning
But I tried it myself (I’ve had it before, but it’s been ages) and found it good - (minerally, appley, bitter, touch of honey, full bodied).
So who to believe?
Well, I Googled her name and it seems as though Catherine has no wine blog and has completed no WSET course.
Make of that what you will.
Zenato Lugana, Italy, 2009 -> About €15 from O’Donovans and others -> ***

Here’s the science - concentrate!

‘Trebbiano di Lugana’ is the grape used in Lugana, a wine from SSW of Lake Garda in Italy’s Brescia.

BUT (and this is new to me) it is the SAME grape as central Italy’s Verdicchio!

The insanity continues then as it transpires that this grape (whether you want to call it Verdicchio di San Gimignano or Trebbiano di Lugana) is the very same grape as Trebbiano di Soave, which is used to add aroma and body to steely garganega in Soave wines!

Confused? You shouldn’t be - I just explained it.

I have the pictured wine, Zenato Lugana 2009, here and it has caused some division here in the Kiernan household. 

Catherine opened it up when I was pumping the guns at the gym and when I came home I asked her how it was:

“Ummmm - I’m not loving it”.

Damning

But I tried it myself (I’ve had it before, but it’s been ages) and found it good - (minerally, appley, bitter, touch of honey, full bodied).

So who to believe?

Well, I Googled her name and it seems as though Catherine has no wine blog and has completed no WSET course.

Make of that what you will.

Zenato Lugana, Italy, 2009 -> About €15 from O’Donovans and others -> ***

The most convenient place for me to shop for wine at present is a Supervalue close to my place of work. The selection is very dull but, for some reason, it carries almost every Torres brand that is sold in Ireland (though no “Celeste”, sadly).
Torres is my favourite big brand so this isn’t a terrible state of affairs by any means.
Within the past week we’ve drank the Vina Esmeralda (€10.79 / Catalunya -super fruity Muscat/Gewurzt), Vina Sol, (€7.50 / Catalunya - simple Parellada) and Gran Vina Sol (€12.99 / Penedes - oaked Chard/Parellada). Reports good in all cases.
The type of muscat used in Vina Esmeralda is the same as the vine I have on my balcony. What a happy day it will be for me when it actually produces a grape or two.
See: http://pauljkiernan.wordpress.com/2009/02/23/coteaux-de-sandyford-2015/ for more on my vine.

The most convenient place for me to shop for wine at present is a Supervalue close to my place of work. The selection is very dull but, for some reason, it carries almost every Torres brand that is sold in Ireland (though no “Celeste”, sadly).

Torres is my favourite big brand so this isn’t a terrible state of affairs by any means.

Within the past week we’ve drank the Vina Esmeralda (€10.79 / Catalunya -super fruity Muscat/Gewurzt), Vina Sol, (€7.50 / Catalunya - simple Parellada) and Gran Vina Sol (€12.99 / Penedes - oaked Chard/Parellada). Reports good in all cases.

The type of muscat used in Vina Esmeralda is the same as the vine I have on my balcony. What a happy day it will be for me when it actually produces a grape or two.

See: http://pauljkiernan.wordpress.com/2009/02/23/coteaux-de-sandyford-2015/ for more on my vine.

Source: torres_gropesofsloth

Text

President’s Selection shiraz and chardonnay is reduced to €12.99 in Supervalue. I have the chardie here and am surprised to see it’s a puny 12.5% ABV. I didn’t think Australia did whites with such low alcohol (except for Hunter semillon)! Still, I suppose if I drink enough of it I’ll get some kind of buzz.  ***

Text

La Bascula Catalan Eagle, DO Terra Alta, Spain, 2009 (€14 from independents).

Terra Alta is an appellation in the province of Tarragona, Catalonia.

Picasso used to spend his summers here and he painted a number of okay pictures of the hilly, rolling countryside.

But the art doesn’t stop there. Some of the cooperatives in Terra Alta were designed during the 1920s by Cesar Martinell, a student of Gaudi.

The vino itself is organic or, to give it its requisite, unwieldy title, ”wine made from organically grown grapes”. Those grapes being garnacha blanco (a principal grape in this DO) and viognier (a permitted grape).

Youthful aromas of fresh stone fruit, apricot, and musky spice. Recognisably viognier (unless being tasted blind). Textured, dry, full bodied and with medium acidity. Orange and citrus peel. The 14% ABV doesn’t quite slip down unnoticed but otherwise good. 6/10

[p.s. See http://pauljkiernan.wordpress.com/2011/01/05/organic_wine_spoof/ for a recent organic-themed post I wrote on my primary blog, Grapes of Sloth ].